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iv done some major work on my sailient and it still wont rev

 
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aidanworthington
Junior Wrench


Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Location: england

PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 1:29 pm    Post subject: iv done some major work on my sailient and it still wont rev Reply with quote

hello im new here
so far on my 1982 sailient iv changed the exhaust for an apprila sonic GP allso iv changed the carb for a 22mm race type with a manuel choke performance air filter and i jeted it to 80 plus a bit of cynder porting . But the thing wont rev past about 8000 and i carnt find a 6v cdi to swop any ideas[/img]
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aidanworthington
Junior Wrench


Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Location: england

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like it might be the reed valve i might of oppend the stops up to mutch causing it not being able to open or close fastenouth ie resonating between strokes il keep you all updated
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aidanworthington
Junior Wrench


Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Location: england

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok iv closed them down to an openning of 5mm
revs are a lot smoother with less bogging at full frottle
i would guess revs are at about 9500 to 10,000 ish so ther is some improvment .
there is defenety a cdi limiter on this scoot going down hill it cuts out and on a strait it stutters at 40mph. unlimited i recon it would do about 55 (if the head stays on (i might lower the compression to allow cooler high rpm and a set of 2000rpm cluch spirngs would help the pull off and a set of 5 gram rollers to finish it Twisted Evil ))
has enyone messed with the cdi on one of these
it will save me getting the dmm(digital multi metre)out

plz forgive the spelling engins are my thing lol
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aidanworthington
Junior Wrench


Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Location: england

PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok what a weard cdi setup
there is a 6 wire control box which goes to a 4 wire cdi that goes to the coil
this is how i belive the setup works after a lot of wire tracing and testing

for all this to make sence you must understand how the ignition works on this modle. it has 3 settings 1st one is off 2nd is like a helper for the auto choke (advances the timing and limits the revs to 1000 ish) the 3rd setting is normal warm running

i hav put a new carb on with a manuel choke but the timeing advance helps cold running alot so i dont want to disable this at this time.

this is what i did to get rid of the rev limiter but keep the timing advance for cold starting .The control box is basically the 2nd setting with the advanced timing dut allso controlls the timing for the hot running(3rd setting) iv found the black wire is the restrictor im after but its allso the swich pair for the cdi so to keep the controler happy iv left the black wire on this controls the 2nd setting.
to sort out the rev timiter is simpol cut the black wire to the cdi and earth it to the coil this will leave you with the swich pair left just leave these disconected job done

Just to clear thing up the earth wire starts at theturn key earth point goes to the controller then to the cdi

when the ignition is turnd on the controler tell the cdi to work and the earth throu the ignition limits the controler thats the 2nd setting that i want to keep

when you turn the key to the 3rd setting this wire is diconected from the egnition causing normal running the ignition cuts the controllers black wire this just leaves the black wire between the controler to the cdi when the controller hits 10000 revs it disconect,s the cdi by taking its earth away till revs drop so but earting this wire to the cdi job done

i hope i havent gone over the top on the exponation on how it works lol
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DandyDan
Site Admin


Joined: 17 Oct 2007
Posts: 1076
Location: Victoria, BC

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job and thanks for the info. That may really come in handy for someone. You're a lot better at electronic stuff than me.
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aidanworthington
Junior Wrench


Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Location: england

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHEERS

yip that all works but the reed valve is still not happy at high rpm so thats my last port of call. even with it closed a bit it still resonates at top end i gues it was not desined for this kind of rpm or its just showing its age one of the two.

Iv just orderd a reed sheet of mallosi that should sort things out and a new drive belt and a set of 1500 rpm cluch springs that should help things get going
il keep u all posted

on a nother note iv found that the rear variator of an appilia sonic gp fits no real performance gain but a nice sweet cluch hence the springs

i am looking at a speedfight 50 frount variator and using the original(sailiant) back plate with a custon stainless steel bush
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DandyDan
Site Admin


Joined: 17 Oct 2007
Posts: 1076
Location: Victoria, BC

PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow you're making awesome progress.

Is that Malossi 'reed sheet' a set of reeds ready to go? Or is this a sheet that you cut your own reeds from?
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aidanworthington
Junior Wrench


Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Location: england

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its one you cut down its a pain to do but worth the effort as iv found in earlyer projects

heres an update of sorts
just got a new scooter of the chinese variety (i know its pants but wait for it)using the 50cc GY6 engine (for stroke engine )and im using the engine bracket of the 50cc 2 stroke version to hang a 150cc GY6 .so the sailient is going to the extream do or die Very Happy

the list of ugrades are

20 to 1 compression cynder head (il just skim the original down till there is just enouth room for the spark plug)

now heres the biggie im converting to nitro kit car fuel hence the high compression Smile and im starting with a carb jet of 180 (i got the idea of a drag diesil tractor conversion ) the only hard part i guess is getting the glow plug fitted .

il keep everyone posted
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DandyDan
Site Admin


Joined: 17 Oct 2007
Posts: 1076
Location: Victoria, BC

PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow you're not the timid sort. Good luck with this project. It's going to be memorable no matter what.
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aidanworthington
Junior Wrench


Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Location: england

PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry about the wait

iv made a slight change to my plan after a bit of math i calculated that i would need a carb jet of 180 with a jet that large it would drink the nitro like its going out of fasion not good Crying or Very sad

plan B iv found a small fogger jet made by nos Smile and iv piped that to a ford fiesta rear wash bottle (small square one) with a built in pump Very Happy
iv placed the fogger jet in the carb by drilling out a spair oil\vacume line at the rear of the carb allmost looks profesional setup with a swich on the handle bars

Testing
Iv found this setup to give a nice extra 20% more power at a guess
to get the most out of it im using 7 gram rollers with 1500 rpm springs on the aprillia sonic rear variator and cluch
The throttle must be fully opend (at low reves )before the nitro is swiched on otherwise it just boggs pops and bangs
having this kind of setup is the best compromise i guess for reliability and cost Laughing lets just hope the nitro doesnt eat all the pipes otherwise il have to get some silicone ones

give it a go Razz
very happy with the results
has anyone got an idea on some other mod i could try
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