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How To: Variator Removal and Disassembly
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DandyDan
Site Admin


Joined: 17 Oct 2007
Posts: 1075
Location: Victoria, BC

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicely done. You sure can lose a lot of performance with a worn out drive train.
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bleddy
Junior Wrench


Joined: 10 Jun 2012
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just installed a set of 5.0g weights and they were WAY too light. I'm not sure that my Beluga even shifted gears. It was screaming the whole time I took it for a test drive after.

Unfortunately the bolt that tightens the kick-starter to the shaft broke off and I had to use a hacksaw to cut it off and pry the kick-starter off. I'm going to move up to 6.5g next weekend.

Aside from my bolt snap, this guide was spot on and very nicely done.

Thanks.
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EeroW
Junior Wrench


Joined: 11 Feb 2015
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ Just FYI for anyone reading this, you don't have to remove the kick start lever to access the belt drive system. I don't think you have to remove the pulleys to get the belt off either.


You want the variation to stall until your pipe hits. Most stock pipes are low to mid range power, with a ceiling of 8000 rpms typically. Short fat pipes hit high rpms harder than long skinny ones, but that's a general guideline and can differ greatly from pipe to pipe. Read about expansion chambers here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_chamber

You need to tune the engine and transmission around the pipe no matter what!!
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